Prague Writers' Festival, J Haynes' blog,
5th June 2008
Thursday: Wake up early. Listen to the BBC World Service television.
Robert Kennedy assassinated 40 years ago today. My old friend from Warsaw,
Stash Pruszynski, was there and witnessed this tragedy. When will we ever
learn the truth about who really did it and the other assassinations as
well? Then turn it off and go back to sleep. Up again after 9. Climb out
of bed, quickly wash and go downstairs for another breakfast feast. Spot
Slavenka Drakulic in the lobby and apologize to her for missing our breakfast
date. She suggests I join her now for a visit to the Museum of Communism.
But breakfast calls. Thank her and walk the short distance to what is
rapidly becoming one of my favorite rituals. I rarely eat anything in
the mornings in Paris. But here in the Hotel Josef, all is so delicious
that it is impossible not to indulge. Sit alone, but Guillaume Basset
soon joins me. We discuss Paul Austers film and gossip a bit about
the festival. I ask him if the attractive woman he left the theatre with
last night might be Laure, his girlfriend. He says yes it was and that
he will introduce us later tonight.
Back in
the lobby, Tariq Ali is preparing to depart today for Copenhagen. I scribble
a few words in the book White Washing Fences, and ask Guillaume
to give it to Tariq when they meet later. (The book is a bit embarrassing
because it is a warm homage to me written by some thirty writers and edited
by Howard Aster of Mosaic Books in Toronto.) I have one more book that
I brought from Paris. It is Throw a Great Party edited by Mary
Bartlett, Antonia Hoogewerf, and Catherine Monnet. The subtitle is Inspired
by evenings in Paris with Jim Haynes and contains all you need to
know about how to give superb dinner parties. Based, of course, on thirty
years of Sunday dinners in Paris in my atelier to which some 120,000 people
have attended. I see Milena Findeis walking towards me, so she gets this
copy. She and the Hotel Josef have been so supportive of the Prague Writers
Festival.
Time for
our lunch date at the American Ambassadors residence. I share a
taxi there with Michael March, Lara Woolstom from Amnesty International
in London, and Helena Lambrou. Helena organizes a poetry festival on the
Greek island of Skoplos the 21st and 22nd of June every year. We arrive
and I have forgotten my invitation. But my name is on the list and I am
allowed to enter. The Ambassador, Richard W. Graber, greets us. Thank
him for extending hospitality to us all. He gives a brief talk about the
history of the mansion and the family who had it built. We also learn
how and when it was acquired by the American government. The residence
is a large home situated in beautiful grounds. We are a fairly numerous
group of people that includes the Swedish Ambassador, Catherine von Heidenstam.
She always looks so lovely. Talk with the Cultural Attaché of the
Embassy of Mexico, Antonio Lopez Rios, and am introduced to his wife.
Thank him again for the delicious Mexican food served on Tuesday evening.
He gives me an invitation to attend a concert tonight to hear the Trio
Morelia. Tell him I would love to attend, but that I am not sure how the
rest of the day will unfold. Meet also a woman named Suzanne Pastor who
seems to be involved with graphics and book design. Talk as well with
Michael McClure, with Hannah Brooks-Motl and with lots of other people.
Vlasta introduces me to Zdenek Jicínský who was a close
associate of Dubcek and the people around the Prague Spring.
He and I chat briefly in French.
The lunch
is delicious. Thank you, tax-payers of America.
In the ride
into the city, talk with Josef Rauvolf, a journalist and translator. He
has translated into Czech a number of writers including William Burroughs,
Charles Bukowski, Jack Kerouac, Allen Ginsberg, Herbert Selby Jr and William
Blake. Behind us, on the back seat, sit Siri Hustvedt, Paul Auster, and
Melina Findeis. Mention to Paul and Siri that I will see them the 13th
and 14th of June in Paris when Shakespeare & Co and Sylvia Whitman
host real lives exploring memoir and biography, another
literary festival.
Brief rest
in Hotel Josef. Then we are in a taxi again for the American Center for
a conversation between Paul Auster and Michael McClure with Paul Kahn
acting as the moderator. The place is packed. I know most of what is discussed
since I lived through the period but it is interesting to re-live those
exciting times once again.
Afterwards
about eight of us, (including Michael March, Dominique & Paul Kahn,
Amy & Michael McClure, Paul Foster) dine in a Serbian restaurant called
Gitanes. It is just down from the American Embassy in Trziste 7. Goran
Bregovics music can be heard softly in the restaurant. (This, of
course, makes me think of Maria Rankov and the time I traveled to Timisoara
and Cluj to attend two Goran Bregovic concerts and to dine with him and
Maria afterwards.)
Some people
ride in an Embassy car to the Theatre Minor for the last international
evening with Dimitris Nollas (from Greece), Petr Kral (Czech Republic)
and Paul Auster (USA). A few others walk there. I jump on the #20 tram
and ride there. When I exit the tram, chat with a lovely woman to make
sure I am headed in the right direction and discover that Petra (from
Most, Czech Republic) is also going to the theatre. We chat and walk there
together.
And then
it is over. Well, not entirely. There is a superb party at the Zofin Garden
restaurant, a short walk from the theatre. Igor Pomerantsev asks me outside
the theatre if I know the directions. I have asked Clare Wigfall to join
me and I introduce her to Igor. Clare introduces me to a fellow from San
Francisco (whose name I have forgotten) and we four strike out for the
party. Igor and Clare in the lead and Clares friend and me very
much in the rear. I walk much slower than I used to do.
I sit almost
the entire time with Geraldine Sweeney and Stefan Pearson. Too tired to
circulate. A few people pass to say goodbye. Rossano Maniscalchi gives
me a copy of No Small Distance, one of his photographic books,
and we discuss his having an exhibition in my private gallery. Martin
Belk and Jonathan Pryce join us. Vlasta Brtnikova asks if I would like
a ride to the Hotel Josef and I say this is a good idea. Look around to
say my farewells, but they will have to wait until tomorrow. Or another
day. It has been another fantastic week. Michael and Vlasta and their
team have done a fantastic job.
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